Porto Cristo Like a Local: The Spots Tourists Never Find
Porto Cristo sits on the east coast of Mallorca — a real working town with fishing boats, local bars frequented by all generations and restaurants that have been serving Mallorquin specialities for their local customers for longer that it’s been visited by tourists. Most visitors arrive, queue for the Coves del Drac, and leave. Here are just a few of the experiences they miss.
The tourist part of Porto Cristo is easy enough to find. Walk down to the harbour, buy an ice cream, watch the boats. All of this is beautiful and a wonderful experience of itself… But venture five minutes in any direction and you are somewhere entirely different — somewhere locals live, eat and go out dancing until dawn. This guide is for that Porto Cristo.
When to visit Porto Cristo
Porto Cristo is worth visiting year-round, but the sweet spot is May to June and September to October. The sea is warm, the town is alive, and if you’re lucky you may get a table at Sa Parra without booking ahead. July and August are busy — not Magaluf busy, but busy enough that Cala Varques fills up by mid-morning and the restaurants are packed. Winter is quiet and some places close, but the town is still charming and the walks along the coast are genuinely beautiful.
The water is swimmable from late May through October. The cave-fed coves like Cala Murta are cool even in August — part of the appeal rather than a reason to avoid them.
Cala Murta: the hidden cove next to the Drach Caves
Most people visiting the Coves del Drac have no idea that one of the most unusual swimming spots on the east coast is a short walk from the caves car park. Cala Murta starts right there — follow the path from the back of the Drach car park and within a few minutes you arrive at a narrow rocky cove where cold underground water from the caves meets the warm Mediterranean.
Enjoy jumping and snorkelling at Cala Murta in the summertime
The effect is genuinely strange and brilliant. As you swim you move through distinct layers of temperature — cold, warm, cold again — visible as a kind of stripe in the water. The snorkelling is excellent, the rocks are good for jumping, and the slightly awkward scramble down filters out anyone who is not committed. The crowd here tends to be younger, cooler and more adventurous. This is not a sunbed beach. It is much better than that.
How to get there: the path starts from the Coves del Drac car park — it is a short walk. No services, no bar, no lifeguard. Wear shoes you can scramble in. Not suitable for young children or anyone with limited mobility.
Cala Varques: how to reach the most beautiful beach in east Mallorca
One of the most beautiful beaches on the east coast of Mallorca, and one of the hardest to reach — which is exactly what keeps it wonderful. Fine white sand, turquoise water that stays shallow for a long way out, pine forest at the back and the spectacular Cala Varques natural rock arch just along the coast.
In low season you may have it almost to yourself. In high season it fills with locals who come from across the island, but it never becomes the resort scene that more accessible beaches do. There are no services, no bar, no lifeguard — bring everything you need including plenty of water.
How to get there: two options. On foot from Cala Romàntica — follow the signed coastal path, about an hour's walk along cliff and scrub, worth every step. By car — turn off the Ma-4014 Porto Cristo to Porto Colom road onto the dirt track, park at the end, then a 15 to 20 minute walk to the beach. Wear proper shoes either way. In summer, go early. The midday heat on the walk back is brutal.
Where to eat in Porto Cristo like a local
This is where Porto Cristo really earns its place. Two restaurants in particular are institutions — cheap, brilliant, and almost entirely unknown to tourists.
Sa Parra restaurant: the best value lunch in Porto Cristo
A two-course Mallorquine set lunch — main course, homemade dessert, wine, water, bread and olives — for €9 or €10. They do not speak English but they will welcome you as warmly as any regular. In the morning there are cakes, pastries and they will make you any bocadillo or pa amb oli you ask for. Kitchen runs 1pm to 3pm, 4pm at a push.
If you are lucky you will arrive on a fideu day. Mallorquine fideu is the island's version of paella — same idea, but made with noodles instead of rice, and when Sa Parra makes it the smell drifts up the street and everyone in the neighbourhood knows what is happening. On Saturdays they often serve only paella, and the locals love it so much that booking becomes absolutely essential. Sundays they are closed.
It is always full — inside and on the terrace. Book ahead. Like most local restaurnats, they don’t have a website - they don’t need it as they’re alasy full! All their contact info is on Google, Sa Parra.
Can Tasco: authentic Mallorquin food in Porto Cristo
The bigger sibling to Sa Parra. at Can Tasco a three-course set lunch for €14, wine and water included. Order a gaseosa to mix with your wine and you have earned your local credentials. The daily menu has around eight choices — all meat or fish — but even if the daily menu does not appeal there is a full menu with real depth: arroz brut (the Mallorquine rice broth that tastes like the island distilled into a bowl), frit mallorquí, fresh seafood, grilled meats, a full Mallorquin breakfast for €8 and burgers for the kids. The paella is worth ordering if you are a group.
The portions are generous — you may find yourself asking for a carton para llevar to take the rest home. No frills, exceptional value, and they open in the evenings too, which Sa Parra does not.
Note: vegetarians will struggle at both restaurants there are options, but not many. Mallorquin cooking is built on meat and fish.
El Port Kebab: a Porto Cristo institution
Down in town, this kebab house is a genuine local institution. They make their own bread — and it shows. For around a tenner you get a kebab, chips and a caña. Locals sit inside watching the match. It is unpretentious, it is excellent, and it is exactly the kind of place that has never needed to advertise.
Where to drink in Porto Cristo
Head to the top of town — the part of Porto Cristo that has not been adjusted for tourists, where everything is cheaper and nothing is for show.
Bar Babylon: the local bar at the top of town
Bar Babylon is a proper local bar: darts, pool, table football, air hockey. The drinks are poured to Spanish measure and you have been warned about that. It is friendly, it is welcoming, and tourists who make it this far are guaranteed an unfiltered taste of everyday Porto Cristo life. You will talk to strangers. You will probably make friends.
Carero: where the locals go to dance in Porto Cristo
In most Mallorcan coastal towns, the late-night scene caters almost entirely to tourists. Porto Cristo is different. Head past the bridge to the corner of town known as Carero, and even in peak season, you will find it mostly full of locals of all ages, from 18 to 80! Youngsters from other towns also visit on special nights when Mongo Bongo brings their favourite local house and techno DJ’s. Remember this is Spain, the clubs don’t even open until midnight and don’t really get going until after 1am!
There are three clubs. Hat Trick is a solid favourite of the locals and where the restaurant and bar staff go to meet friends and dance when they’re shifts finish — friendly, eclectic music, inside and outside space, great vibes. Mongo Bongo draws the younger crowd with DJs who are well known on the Mallorcan circuit. Thai has a fantastic outdoor terrace. All three are free entry. They stay open until 5 or 6am at weekends, and on summer weeknights a little earlier. Tourists are genuinely welcome. They just rarely find the place. Now you do. In fact, Carerò is so well hidden that we struggled to find photos for you! You can check out Hat Trick and Mongo Bongo on Insta to see what’s happening when you’re in town.
Local tips for visiting Porto Cristo
Go to Cala Murta on a weekday if you want it quieter. For Cala Varques in summer, arrive by 9am or wait until after 4pm, if you really want to visit between these hours, we advise taking the shorter walk and using the car as the walk from Cala Romantica really does get very hot! Sa Parra is nearly always fully booked every lunchtime, it’s that good! Be sure to call and book ‘‘Puedo reservar una mesa por favor?’’— they have the daily menu on a board outside, it’s always in Mallorquin, but you can use the Google Lens on your Google Translate app to understand what the dishes are. Also, quirkily, a little further up the same road, you’ll find another ‘Sa Parra’ no relation and very different! this is is a large bar, they do food but it’s not the standard as Sa Parra and the vibes are different. At Bar Babylon, pace yourself; the measures are not tourist size!
Book a Moonfish Glass Bottom Boat Tour and see Cala Murta and Cala Varques from the sea!
The easiest way to see Cala Murta, Cala Varques and the hidden coastline between them is from the water. We run glass bottom boat tours from and to Porto Cristo and Cala Romantica, from Cala Millor, Sa Coma, Cala Bona, Calas de Mallorca — you will see the sea caves, the coves and the underwater world through our submarine viewing windows, you’ll get to see more secret coastal caves and beaches that aren’t on any map. Book a tour and we will show you the rest.
Book your Moonfish Glassbottom Boat Tour to Porto Cristo and Swim at Cala Varques here